For years, I’ve pondered the subject of mulch. What is it really for? If it’s supposed to discourage weeds, will it also prevent biennials like foxgloves from reseeding? Is it supposed to stabilize soil temperate in winter? How does that work? Will it discourage emerging plants that aren’t weeds? What kinds of materials make good mulch? When should you mulch? How much should you use?
Through trial and much error, I’ve figured out an approach to mulching that works for me and seems to benefit my perennial beds. But I’ve had to toss aside (literally and figuratively) a lot of unhelpful material in the process.
Mulch serves several purposes in the garden. In the winter, a layer of mulch is useful to keep winter cold in the ground so that occasional warm spells don’t cause the ground to thaw so that plants heave up out of the soil.
Dead leaves, evergreen branches, saltmarsh hay and other materials can be used. The point is, they’re supposed to be keeping the ground cold, not warm. That being said, they should be applied only when the ground has thoroughly frozen for the winter. And when spring arrives, you should gently remove them, trying not to disturb delicate spring shoots.
But mulch does other things for the garden besides keeping the soil from freezing and thawing. Mulch helps to keep weeds under control. Mulch also feeds the soil, and good quality soil is the most important thing you can give your plants. Branches and hay are helpful in winter, but they have no nutritional value.
There are several mulches that serve these weed and feed functions very effectively. The best mulches are organic substances, that is, derived from some living or formerly living matter. These should be fine to medium textured so they can break down easily into the soil over a season or two. Ideally, they should be aged or composted so they are chemically ready to provide nutrients to the soil right away.
Such organic materials include dead, shredded leaves. If you have autumn leaves, pile them up and run a lawnmower over them to shred them. There are even special machines made to shred leaves. Keep these in a pile, loosely covered, and use them as you need them.
Another excellent mulch is composted cow, horse and bird manure. Garden stores sell this in bags, which are pricey. We are fortunate to live in the Pioneer Valley (how many times do I say that?) where there are many working farms that produce enormous quantities of composted manure. The manure is usually mixed in with wood shavings used as bedding for the animals. If you’ve ever mucked out a horse or cow barn, you know what I’m talking about.
Many farmers will be happy to let you come and haul it away for free, or a fraction of the cost you’d pay for commercial, bagged stuff. Ask the UMass Extension and Center for Agriculture, or your 4-H or local farmer supply store for advice on how to locate these sources.
Make sure whatever manure you collect is fully composted. That means it’s been sitting in a pile or pit long enough to have broken down. It should look more or less like dirt. Do not put fresh manure on gardens. It is more concentrated in nutrients and will burn your plants. It also may contain weed seeds that will germinate in your garden. Who needs more weeds?
Your own kitchen compost also makes good mulch, but unless your garden is very small and your family very large and hungry, you probably don’t generate enough of it throughout the year to satisfy all your needs.
Stay away from wood and bark chips, whether bagged or in bulk. While these keep weeds down and make everything look pretty, they don’t decompose quickly, and even when they finally do, they don’t feed the soil. Let’s not even talk about chemically dyed wood products.
You should apply mulch in the spring in a layer of 2 to 3 inches. Wait until the soil has warmed up and dried out some. Don’t put it directly in contact with tree and shrub roots, or you may attract pests and diseases.
If you want to let biennials reseed, be sparing with your mulch around those plants. You can apply more later after the seeding is finished.
Whenever you plant or move something in the garden, take some time to add mulch to the area you dig.
I recently came across an excellent discussion of mulch in a fabulous gardening website created by Margaret Roach, a gardener and writer who is giving the keynote address at the Western Massachusetts Master Gardeners’ Symposium Saturday in South Deerfield (I profiled her in the March 3 Gazette).
Roach’s website is called “awaytogarden.com.” Although the words are run together, “a” and “way” are two different words. In other words, she’s not suggesting that anyone go “away” to garden. It’s the most informative, user-friendly, well-written and inspiring garden website I’ve ever seen.
She lives nearby in New York state, close to the Massachusetts border, so she gardens in the same conditions we have locally.
I can’t recommend “awaytogarden.com” highly enough. My only caution is that you might never be able to close it down once you start reading.
The Amherst Woman’s Club is having its annual Spring Flower Show March 25, from noon till 4 p.m. at its lovely 19th-century Italianate clubhouse.
There will be a floral demonstration by Susan Roy at 1:30 p.m., the result of which will be given as a door prize. A variety of terraria, plants and flowers will be on sale, including herbs, spring bulbs and French pussy willow cuttings. Refreshments will be served.
This is a wonderful opportunity to see one of Amherst’s finest residences, at 35 Triangle St., just east of the Emily Dickinson Homestead on Main Street. It was built in 1864 by Leonard Mariner Hills, founder of Amherst’s famed palm-leaf hat company, and designed by the celebrated Northampton architect William Fenno Pratt.
The event is a fundraiser for the club’s scholarship program and community service projects. Tickets are $5, which includes door prize entry. Call 548-9134 for more information.
Does nature inspire you? Do you want to be part of something fun while giving back to the land you love? The Kestrel Land Trust is offering an information session on March 30 from 6:30 to 8 p.m. about being a Community Crew Volunteer. Such volunteers work with Kestrel’s Community Engagement and Fundraising team to help organize and coordinate public events like the 5K for Farmland, and connect people with the land through the arts, history and culture.
The meeting will take place at Kestrel’s office, 284 North Pleasant St. in Amherst. Light refreshments will be provided. For more information and to RSVP, email katy@kestreltrust.org .
Mickey Rathbun can be reached at foxglover8@gmail.com.