By Nina M. Scott
Now it was my turn to host our Five College Learning in Retirement Tasting Circle crew, and I admit to being in a bit of a tizzy about putting the whole meal together. I had chosen to feature potatoes, which originated in Andean South America; I had also eaten many delicious potato dishes in Europe, especially Germany and Spain.
Wanting to showcase both Spanish and Andean dishes, I totally overdid, preparing a signature Colombian soup — ajiaco bogotano — with chicken, potatoes, avocado, corn, cream and capers; Spanish Tortilla Española; Ecuadorean llapingachos; fingerling potatoes with red and green mojo sauces from the Canary Islands, and even a potato-infused baguette. The only thing free of my beloved tubers was the mango sherbet we had for dessert.
My first sabbatical from the University of Massachusetts Amherst was in 1976-77, when our family (my husband and I and our three children, 11, 9 and 6) went to Quito, Ecuador. We had never been to South America and it was a major adventure. Quito is incredibly high (9,000 feet) and beautiful, with the majestic volcano Cotopaxi floating over the city. Cooking at that altitude was quite a lesson — my first batch of brownies looked like a half-track armored personnel carrier had run over them, and they were hard as concrete. I have never learned so much on so many fronts as in that year — and not just about cooking, either.
Llapingachos, a fried, mashed-potato patty, was one of our favorite Ecuadorean foods. I first had them on the coast in Bahía, and because they were deep orange in color, thought I was facing yams, which I dislike. But no — this was a crunchy, satisfying real potato dish, served with a fried egg on top and sliced avocado, shredded lettuce, sliced tomatoes and fresh salsa on the side.
Indulge.
Llapingachos
Serves 4-5
Scant tablespoon annatto seeds
5 tablespoons canola oil
1 large onion, diced
2 pounds Russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
2 egg yolks
1 round Ecuadorean cheese or 6-8 ounce Monterey Jack, grated. (Using one-half Pepper Jack would step things up.)
1 fried egg per person
Avocado, tomato, lettuce, fresh salsa
Note: Annatto seeds and Ecuadorean cheese are available at the Ecuador/Andino store in Hadley.
Boil the potatoes until soft, drain and mash.
Meanwhile, sauté annatto seeds in the oil over medium-low heat. Annatto has no flavor and is used as a coloring agent. Remove seeds when they are dark — do not burn — then sauté the onion in 2 tablespoons of the oil until soft.
Mix with the mashed potatoes and add two egg yolks. Add grated cheese.
Mix well. Correct seasoning. Let the mixture rest at least a half-hour.
Shape into patties about 4-5 inches across and 1 inch thick.
Fry on both sides in remaining 3 tablespoons oil or oil and butter until the patties are crusty and nicely browned.
For each person, place one or two llapingachos on a warmed plate. Top with a fried egg and serve with shredded lettuce, sliced tomato, sliced avocado and your favorite salsa.
Nina Scott of Amherst is a retired UMass Spanish professor.