For those who prefer a warm bath to pubs full of shrieking partyers clad in their emerald finest, perhaps I could suggest acknowledging St. Patrick’s Day with steaming plates of shepherd’s pie.
One of the world’s great comfort foods, it consists of three layers: creamy mashed potatoes slathered atop well-sauced and seasoned ground meat with a bottom layer of perfectly cooked vegetables.
Although the elements are layered together in one dish, shepherd’s pie is not quite a one-pot meal. Each of its three component layers is first cooked completely and separately before assembly for the final warming in a hot oven.
Also, and this is very important, each component must be properly seasoned. That way, the entire dish will be perfectly seasoned.
I like to lay the vegetables on the bottom, then cover them with the meat and its accompanying sauce. That way the liquid from the meat sauce drips like trickle-down economics over the vegetables, flavoring them and keeping them moist. As I mentioned, other people prefer to combine the vegetables with the meat. Just remember: This is America. Do what you want.
The meat: It’s called “shepherd’s pie” because, traditionally, it was made with lamb, the nighttime guardians of which, of course, were shepherds. Here in modernity, though, you’re just as likely to see the dish made with beef rather than lamb, though that iteration was often known as cottage pie. Beef in general is much more popular, easier to come by and cheaper, usually, than lamb.
Before assembling, the meat is browned in fat along with aromatic vegetables such as diced onions and possibly carrots and celery (known as “mirepoix” in French kitchens), garlic or even bell peppers of various colors. You can season the meat any way you want. Standard Western herbs such as rosemary, thyme, oregano, etc., are very common. You could also get all nutsy and go with Middle Eastern flavors (think spice mixes like za’atar or ras el hanout) or Indian spices like coriander, cumin, turmeric and the popular mix called garam masala.
Lastly, the meat needs a liquid component to make a sauce. I’m partial to a tomato base and usually just whirl a can of good quality imported tomatoes in the food processor before adding it to the meat. Other people prefer stock or broth (mixed with a bit of Guinness, perhaps?) thickened with roux. Like the gravy they serve in heaven.
The potatoes: The potatoes ought to be mashed to creamy richness and spread over the meat in an even layer. If you’re feeling all fancy, use a piping bag with a star tip. Whatever you do, just make sure, once again, that the potatoes are seasoned properly, that your guests are left blinking in astonishment at their stand-alone perfection. Flavor the mashed potatoes as you wish. Butter and cream are easy and traditional, of course. Or you can top the whole thing with shredded or grated cheese to give a nice brown crust when it bakes. Now, have at it. And Happy Paddy’s Day.
Regardless of your choice of ingredients, remember that the key is to have all three layers be about the same size so that each mouthful contains just the right amount of each.
Prep: 30 minutes
Cook: 1 hour, 20 minutes
Makes: 6 to 8 servings
Vegetable oil as needed
12 ounces mirepoix, small dice, see note
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound ground lamb or beef
1 teaspoon salt, or as needed
1 can (26 ounces) tomatoes, pulsed in a food processor until smooth
Herbs de Provence, as needed
2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled, cut into 4 or 6 pieces
2 bay leaves
4 to 8 tablespoons butter, softened
¼ to ½ cup heavy cream, heated
White pepper
1 to 1 ¼ pounds fresh peas or trimmed green beans
1. For the meat sauce, heat a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add some oil and the mirepoix; saute until vegetables just start to turn color, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic; saute until just fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the meat, breaking it up with a wooden spoon. Stir the meat as it cooks to cook it completely and to prevent the onions and garlic from getting too dark. Season with salt to taste. When the meat is cooked through, add the pureed tomatoes. Stir in a teaspoon or two of herbs de Provence, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer to blend flavors, 20-30 minutes.
2. For the potatoes, simmer the russet until fork tender in boiling, unsalted water with bay leaves, 10-20 minutes, depending on the size of your potato pieces. Drain and pass through a ricer or food mill or smash with a mashed potato smasher. While hot, mix in butter and hot cream until smooth. Season with salt and white pepper; set aside.
3. For the vegetables, heat a large pot of water to a boil; salt liberally until it tastes like sea water. Add the green beans or peas; cook until just tender, 3-10 minutes. When vegetables are tender, drain and shock in ice water to stop the cooking and set color. Season with salt and reserve.
4. To assemble, spread the cooked, seasoned vegetables over the bottom of an appropriately sized, oven-proof dish. Spoon the meat sauce evenly over the vegetables. Spread or pipe the potatoes over the meat in an even layer. Bake in a 400-degree oven until the sauce is bubbling and the potatoes are beginning to brown, 30-45 minutes. Serve immediately. Note: Mirepoix is a 2-1-1 mixture of onion, celery and carrot; in this case, about 1 ½ cups chopped onion, and ¾ cup each chopped carrots and celery.