On a recent visit to New York City, my husband and I stayed in Greenwich Village, just off Washington Square Park, a couple of blocks from where we had lived during the 1980s. We recalled the last time we had visited the park as city residents. It was a hot Sunday afternoon in late August 1989. Our son, Tommy, was two weeks old. As we strolled under the magnificent marble arch into the park, there were as many pigeons as people hanging out around the central fountain. Bits of stray trash spilled out of overfull garbage cans. The grass was sparse and dry. Several chess players colonized the metal tables in the southwestern corner of the park. Here and there, men in the shadows called out “smoke, smoke,” in low, urgent voices. “Hey, Tommy’s witnessing his first drug deal!” I told my husband. It seemed like a good time to be moving away from the city, even though we both loved it dearly.
This time around, the park looked spectacular, a far cry from the desolate, unloved space we’d known 30 years earlier. As we walked through the park one morning, we noticed a group of young workers planting a bed of hostas and heucheras in the shade of a London plane tree. As we stopped to watch them, an attractive, fit-looking man holding a bunch of freshly dug hosta shoots greeted us with a friendly hello. We told him that we had lived in the city many years earlier and were happy to see the park looking so well cared for.
The man introduced himself as Guilherme Goncalves (“Gui” for short) and explained that he was the head gardener for the park. A native of Brazil, he came to the U.S. in 2001 and he has worked in several public gardens, including Central Park and the High Line on the city’s lower west side, and at Wave Hill in the Bronx. He started working at Washington Square Park two years ago. He explained that he works directly under George Vellonakis, the landscape architect who redesigned the park several years ago. “It’s like working for Olmsted or Vaux,” he said, referring to the legendary designers of Central Park.
Goncalves described the various areas of the nearly 10-acre park, including the playground and dog run. “You have the space around the fountain, where everybody congregates and there are lots of musicians and street performers. That part is very urban. You have other areas that are more classical and more linear. Then there are more pastoral landscapes on the outskirts of the park.” He pointed to a path winding through a stand of hollies. “Sometimes you can’t see around the bend,” he said. “It’s quieter here. You can sit down and read a book.”
Goncalves said he is inspired by Roberto Burle Marx, a well-known Brazilian landscape architect who “uses drifts and curves and blocks of plantings with more organic shapes. It’s all about textures and shapes and colors.” Gesturing towards a bed of hakonechloa, anemone and hosta, he explained, “Everywhere you look you see these plants repeated in other parts of the park. It ties it all in together and it all becomes one space.”
I told Goncalvez that ten years earlier, my younger son, Nicholas, then a fanatical skateboarder, had been mesmerized by a rowdy skateboard park near the chess tables. “There used to be a lot more concrete in the park,” he said. “We have planted more grass and put in mounds to discourage active sports,” explained Goncalves. I was happy to see that the chess tables haven’t moved.
I learned that there are more than 300 trees in the park, some over 100 years old. “It’s a tree park, a mini-forest,” said Goncalves. “It’s a hunting ground for hawks. Lots of birds come through here.” He spoke about the aging trees. “The ground is so compacted, it’s tough on the trees. The oldest was a sycamore, planted in 1870. But it had to be taken down recently.” Pointing to a gigantic gnarled English elm, one of the oldest in the city, he said, “It sets the tone of the park.”
He noted that the park’s iron lampposts were based on images Vellonakis had discovered from the 1850s. More benches have been added in the past few years. Towards the center of the park, he explained, where there are more people, the benches face each other. “But towards the sides of the park, you don’t have benches facing each other. So when you sit down you’re looking at green. You can have a quieter moment.”
Although I had visited Washington Square Park often since we moved from the city, I saw it that morning through fresh eyes. Vistas that I had seen but never paid attention to suddenly became vivid. I studied the facades of the elegant brick townhouses surrounding the park through the canopy of newly leafed out trees. I imagined Washington Square as Henry James saw it in 1880, when he published his famous novel of the same name. Looking towards the fountain, I saw clusters of smiling N.Y.U. graduates celebrated with their families and loved ones. Loud improvisatory jazz blasted from a speaker. A professional dog walker wrangling six large dogs hurried past. I was back in the 21st century.
Before we parted, Goncalves said, “I liked working on the High Line. I liked Wave Hill too. I loved all these places. But the work style for me here is home. I get to do the lawns, go to nurseries, and choose plants and grow them. And I work closely with George. Sometimes life conspires and everything falls into place.” He waved his handful of hosta transplants and headed back into the garden to join his crew. “This is a perfect job,” he said.
Mickey Rathbun, an Amherst-based lawyer turned journalist, has written the Get Growing column since 2016.
As warmer temperatures arrive in Amherst, it’s time to wake up Emily Dickinson’s garden. All are invited to join a group of volunteers from Amherst and beyond who return each year to aid in the cultivation and growth of the historic Dickinson family landscape. It’s not necessary to be an expert gardener for this “all levels” program. Learn from volunteers who have tended the gardens and be a part of a new generation of caretakers for this historic landmark. In addition to working with master gardener Marta McDowell, volunteers will have the chance to tour the archaeological field school occurring at the Emily Dickinson Museum. Garden volunteer times are June 7 from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and June 8 from 9 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Volunteers should sign-up in advance for either or both days by e-mailing EDMPrograms@EmilyDickinsonMuseum.org.
Marta McDowell is the author of several books, including Emily Dickinson’s Gardens, Beatrix Potter’s Gardening Life, All the Presidents’ Gardens and The World of Laura Ingalls Wilder. She scripted the Emily Dickinson Museum’s landscape audio tour and was an advisor for the New York Botanical Garden’s 2010 show, “Emily Dickinson’s Gardens: The Poetry of Flowers.”
Don’t miss this opportunity to take a close-up look of six exceptional home gardens as well as a set of demonstration plots highlighting pollinator habitat gardening. The Northampton Garden Tour will take place June 8 from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., rain or shine. Advance tickets are $15, available at Cooper’s Corner, State Street Fruit Store, Hadley Garden Center, Bay State Perennial Farm (Whately), and Forbes Library. Day of tickets are $20 and available only at Forbes Library.
For more information, contact Deena at 413-320-2804 or Jody at jody.kabloom@gmail.com
The Hitchcock Center in Amherst is hosting its 4th annual Battle of the Botanicals on June 20, 6 to 10 p.m. at the Powerhouse at Amherst College. The fundraiser boasts an outstanding line-up of teams of local chefs and mixologists creating botanically inspired appetizers and cocktails. All are welcome to help raise vital funds for environmental education and enjoy creative from talented local chefs and mixologists. Participants are invited to sample the offerings at all restaurant stations, vote for their favorites, and see who makes it to the stage to compete for the crown. Enter to win raffle prize packages including outdoor adventures, Red Sox tickets, local food and drink, romantic getaways, and more. Once the winner is crowned, there will be an after-party with DJ Just Joan and authentic Mexican street food from Santo Taco on the outdoor patio. To purchase tickets and for more information, go to hitchcockcenter.org
On June 23, from 5 to 8 p.m., Kestrel Land Trust is having a picnic to show its appreciation for members, volunteers and friends. The event will take place at Rick and Mary Thayer’s historic homestead nestled at the base of the Mount Holyoke Range, looking out onto picturesque preserved farmland spectacular views of Mount Tom. Members, volunteers and anyone interested in learning more about Kestrel are invited to attend. This year, the event will be a potluck with beverages provided, including wine and beer. The event is free, but registration is required and guests should plan to bring a dish to share. (One dish per couple or family is fine.) The party will be casual, so bring your picnic blanket or lawn chairs if the weather is dry. There will be limited table seating for those unable to sit on lawn chairs or on the ground. If the weather is wet, table seating will be provided inside the historic barn.
During the picnic, you’ll have a chance to learn about the history of the Thayer farm and the Hockanum neighborhood, which includes Barstow’s Dairy. The evening will also include a tribute to our generous donors and dedicated volunteers. There will be a drawing for the grand prize of our Spring Membership Drive, as well as several other prizes for attendees of the picnic. Prizes include a 2-night stay at The Old Mill Inn in Hatfield and a $50 gift certificate to Bay State Perennial Farm. Space is limited and registration is required by Friday, June 21. For more information and to register, go to kestreltrust.org