In the early ’80s, I worked in a small kitchen in Brooklyn, New York, as an apprentice to a sarcastic, ill-tempered chef. It was the best job I ever hated, and he taught me an important lesson when I asked what books I should read on the subject of culinary arts. “Read ‘La Technique’ and ‘La Methode’ by Jacques Pepin,” he said. “Everything else is commentary.”
The point was and still is: Written recipes are an individual’s opinion. Techniques and methods are what really matter.
This is what I tell my students at Dean Tech High School, in Holyoke, where I teach culinary arts to teenagers. Once you grasp all the ways grains can be cooked and know why you soak dry beans in water, it’s up to you to use farro instead of barley and red kidney instead of black turtle beans.
By the way, do you know what one of the most common questions is? “What’s a medium onion?” Simple answer: Go to the market and place five onions in size order. Purchase the one in the middle.
Whether I plan a dish or improvise one, I try to incorporate at least three of the following ingredients: a grain, a green, a veggie and a bean (GGVB). My family has a history of high blood pressure and heart disease, and I’ve long been interested in how diet and lifestyle may be involved. When I decided to follow a whole-food, plant-based diet in 2008, the smartest thing I ever did was avoid recipes and instead focus on techniques: the hows and whys as opposed to the whats.
During the weekend, I will cook a couple of grains and a couple of beans. I’ll then place single servings (½ – 1 cup) of each in small Ziplock bags and place them in the freezer or fridge. They lay flat so are easy to label and store.
I prefer greens with distinct flavors; arugula, spinach, frisee, escarole, kale. When I shop in Northampton, where I’m based, I’m always looking for a variety of colors and textures. After buying my vegetables, I cut them, season them and cook them in a variety of ways. By using the same ingredients more than once, in different dishes, I save time and money.
GGVB Burger or Wrap
1 can (14.5 each) drained and rinsed black/red/white beans
½ small yellow onion, grated
2 cloves minced garlic
1 teaspoon oregano
2 Tablespoons chopped parsley
1 Tablespoon chopped cilantro
1 teaspoon chili powder
½ – ¾ cup cooked grain (I prefer farro/barley)
(Or reserved beans)
¾ cup breadcrumbs
Salt and pepper
Neutral oil (canola, sunflower)
Soft roll or 10-inch flour tortilla
Arugula
Tomato
Sliced avocado
Method:
In a medium bowl, mash ¾ of the beans with the onion, oregano, parsley, cilantro and chili powder until well combined.
Add cooked grain, beans. Stir to combine.
Add just enough breadcrumbs to bind mixture.
Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Form into patties depending on desired size.
Add oil to sauté pan just to cover bottom of pan. Over medium heat, add patties and cook three to four minutes on each side.
Or: Cook in 375-degree oven 20-25 minutes until heated through.
Choose your GGVB delivery system — roll or wrap — and enjoy.
Quick tips: Most grains and beans double, if not triple, in volume when cooked as a result of the liquid being absorbed. Cook your grains as you would dried pasta. Bring lightly salted water to a boil, add grains and cook until al dente. Drain well and cool.
If you start with a cup of dry beans, add 4 cups of cool water and let them sit overnight in the fridge before cooking with fresh water/stock. Or use the quick-soak method: Cover beans with water, bring to a boil, remove from heat. Let sit for 90 minutes, drain, then cook.