Yesterday morning as I was walking the dog down South East Street, I came upon my neighbor Tom who was cheerily pruning an apple tree in his front yard. With snow on the ground and ice still glazing the lopped branches, it seemed an odd sight. We chatted for a few minutes. I admired his handiwork and we agreed that spring is on its way. More birdsong, longer days, stronger sunlight, a softness in the air.
Despite the wintry conditions, it’s not too early to start pruning fruit trees. (Other trees and shrubs also can be pruned now, but I’ll save that for another column.) When the tree’s branches are bare, it’s easier to examine its shape and decide where cuts should be made. And cuts will heal faster while the plant is still dormant.
Many of us, myself included, are hesitant when it comes to pruning. What if we cut off the wrong limb? Or cut back too many branches? Will we kill the tree? It turns out that fruit trees are pretty forgiving when it comes to pruning. Here are a few simple rules to follow.
The first question is when to prune a particular plant. According to Dan Ziomek, nursery manager at Hadley Garden Center, apple and pear trees can be pruned now. Stone fruits, including peaches, cherries and plums, should be pruned after they have finished blooming. The reason for this is that stone fruits weigh down their branches heavily and are more likely to snap their branches if left unpruned. Pruning after they have flowered thins the fruit so the branches don’t become overburdened as the fruit grows and ripens. Another reason to wait is that stone fruit trees have softer wood than apple and pear trees, which makes them more susceptible to cold damage that can occur in late winter.
The aim in pruning fruit trees is to stimulate new growth and let air and sun reach their branches. You want to promote evenly spaced branches that create a sturdy framework for fruit production. Removing some of the interior, vertical branches will allow more sun and air to reach the center of the tree. If branches cross, remove one of them, even if it’s healthy. Topping the upper branches helps to expose lower branches to sunlight. It’s also important to control the height of the tree so that you can pick ripened fruit without risking life and limb.
When removing an entire branch, make the cut flush with the trunk. When trimming a branch, make a diagonal cut about ¼ inch above an outward facing bud. This will encourage new growth outward from the center rather than toward the trunk. A good rule of thumb is to remove no more than ⅓ of the tree’s branches.
Remove broken and diseased branches. Also, remove any branches or parts of branches that are bent toward the ground. They will not produce vigorously, if at all. Cut off suckers from the base of the tree and also water sprouts, those skinny branches that emerge from the trunk or from horizontal branches. These aren’t just unsightly, they take away energy from healthy growth and fruit production.
Make sure you use clean, well-sharpened tools. You’ll need a pruning saw, long-handled lopper and hand pruners. A pole saw also comes in handy if your trees are large. You can sharpen your tools with a whetstone, available at hardware stores. Jagged cuts don’t heal well and invite disease and rot.
This week’s clinic at Hadley Garden Center will be about pruning techniques. Dan Ziomek, nursery manager, will give a demonstration and answer your questions. See details below.
This pruning clinic takes place at the Hadley Garden Center, 285 Russell St., Route 9, Saturday at 1 p.m. It’s free but it’s a good idea to arrive early because the space fills fast. 584-1423.
The Pacommuck Conservation Land Trust’s annual meeting will take place Tuesday at 7 p.m. at Lathrop Community’s Mount Tom Room, 100 Bassett Brook Drive, Easthampton.
After annual business there will be a presentation by naturalist Charley Eiseman on “Native Plants as Insect Habitat.”
Berkshire Botanical Garden in Stockbridge is offering a two-part claymation workshop for children and their parents Feb. 25 and March 4, 1 to 4 p.m. Participants will create a video using their own smartphones. They will create and film the heroes of their own botanical fairytale stories.
The workshop will be led by Anastasia Traina, playwright, screenwriter and botanical artist. Over two days, the group will create a storyboard, brainstorm character profiles and discuss elements such as setting, conflict and resolution. After making claymation characters and sets, participants will create a stop- motion video.
Registration includes one child and one adult. Cost is $75 for members; $90 for nonmembers. Go to berkshirebotanical.org for more information and to register.
In March, the Hitchcock Center for the Environment will begin its All-Year Study Club, a series of natural history explorations for naturalists and citizen scientists. The group will meet one Sunday per month, from 9 a.m. to noon.
In each session, the group will meet with different local naturalists to explore a seasonal, natural history topic. Participants will visit a variety of natural habitats in the greater Pioneer Valley area. Identification skills, ecological connections, adaptations, and life cycles of organisms will be the focus.
Participants should be prepared to spend the whole time outdoors. The group will explore natural sites with uneven terrain and moderate elevation changes and hiking, sometimes up to 2 miles. Sessions are rarely cancelled due to inclement weather. Bring binoculars and a hand lens, water and snacks if you would like. Carpooling to more distant locations will be encouraged.
Members: $300/non-members: $350 for the full course. Drop-in cost is $30.
For more information, go to: hitchcockcenter.org.
Mickey Rathbun can be reached at foxglover8@gmail.com.