It’s rhubarb season, and I have an inside track: a colleague who once made the mistake of complaining about having too much rhubarb in her yard in front of me. I’m still not sure who is doing whom the favor for this one, but the good news is that she and I now work on the same floor, making access to rhubarb as easy as just showing up to work.
Rhubarb, for those in the know, is very tart and usually needs a lot of sugar to balance it out. If you’re reading rhubarb recipes and you find yourself questioning the amount of sugar called for, it’s probably not a misprint. Of course you can cut the sugar, but be prepared to pucker.
It’s OK to eat this vegetable (yes, it’s a vegetable) raw, although it’s not my favorite, but please don’t eat the leaves as they are poisonous. I tend to bake with my rhubarb: crumb cakes, spoon cakes and, when I’m feeling fancy, a rhubarb galette with almond cream.
Sometimes, though, I skip heating the oven on hot days and make this compote instead. It’s great over Greek yogurt for breakfast, or vanilla ice cream for dessert (or a breakfast, if that’s your thing.) I stew the rhubarb with strawberries, and I always think some fresh ginger would be a great addition as well.
I adapted this recipe from Erin French’s “The Lost Kitchen,” her cookbook based on her restaurant in Maine. You have to send in a postcard to snag a coveted reservation at this restaurant, so her cookbook on my shelf seems much more manageable.
Ingredients
3 cups chopped rhubarb (1-inch pieces)
Two-thirds cup sugar
Zest of one lemon
Juice of one-half lemon
2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 cups cleaned and quartered fresh strawberries
Directions
In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the rhubarb, sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice and cornstarch. Bring to a summer over medium heat, stirring constantly until the rhubarb becomes tender and sauce-like, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cleaned strawberries and cook for about 4 more minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. This will keep in the fridge for up to a week.
Molly Parr lives in Florence with her husband and two young daughters. She’s been writing her food blog, Cheap Beets, since 2010. Send questions or comments to molly.parr@gmail.com.